You think of a bride wearing heavy silk fabric draped across her body, her neck embellished with glorious gold and studded with precious stones that carry with them stories from hundreds of years ago. You are thinking of Kundan jewellery. Kundan stems from the royal courts of Rajasthan and Mughal India. But beyond just a form of jewellery, Kundan is an ancient art, a tradition passed down through thousands of years, and a symbol of luxury.
However, although Kundan has been around for over 2500 years, there are still many across the world and even in India who ask: what is Kundan jewellery? How has it been made? What makes it unique from other Indian traditional jewellery? In this ultimate guide we will answer these questions and more.
The Meaning Behind the Name: What Does “Kundan” Actually Mean?
The term “Kundan” is derived from Sanskrit and means “pure gold”. The technical definition of Kundan in jewellery making is pure gold or foil used to adhere gemstones to a mounting. The gold used is usually 24-karat gold as an adhesive to secure precious and semi-precious stones to a decorative piece.
Instead of stones set in jewellery with prongs or claws, beads glued in place with epoxy, or stones sandwiched between metal strips (bezel setting), Kundan pieces are crafted so that each stone fits perfectly together with other stones and setting. The void is then filled with gold foil or lac until there are no gaps between stones and the mounting. Kundan jewellery is recognizable by its flat-faced stones flush with bright gold, creating a texture similar to a mosaic.
A Journey Through Time: The History of Kundan Jewellery
Kundan workmanship has its roots in ancient India and its mention can be traced back to texts written around 2500 BCE. Kundan jewellery reached its pinnacle during the rule of the Mughal Empire (16th-19th century).
Akbar and the later Mughal Kings were huge admirers of fine jewellery. Royal workshops across Jaipur, Delhi and Lahore became flourishing centres for Kundan workmanship and amongst these cities, Jaipur turned out to be the centre of Kundan work — a legacy which it proudly preserves even today.
Royal families across Rajasthan adorned themselves with Kundan jewellery as a symbol of power and identity. Ornate neckpieces and jewelled haars (long neck chains), maang tikkas and bajubands (armlets) were created for them, each taking artisans weeks if not months to complete.
This practice was passed down for generations through families of skilled artisans known as “Sunars” or “Kundansaaz” and was never diluted or commercialised compromising quality.
How Is Kundan Jewellery Made? The Step-by-Step Craft Process
Kundan jewellery making is a multi-stage process that demands extraordinary precision, patience, and skill. Each piece passes through the hands of several specialist craftspeople before reaching its final form. Here is a breakdown of the key stages involved:
-
Ghaat (Framework Construction): The artisan first creates a base structure using gold or gold-plated metal. This framework defines the shape and form of the final piece.
-
Khudai (Engraving): The inner surfaces of the framework are engraved or carved to hold the lac, a resin filler that provides structural support and acts as the bonding bed for stones.
-
Paadh (Lac Filling): Lac is carefully filled into the cavities of the framework. This material, when heated, becomes pliable, making it easier to embed stones with precision.
-
Kundansaazi (Stone Setting): Gemstones — which can include rubies, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, uncut diamonds (Polki), and glass foiled stones — are carefully pressed into the lac bed. Thin sheets of pure gold (Kundan foil) are then used to fill the remaining gaps, holding the stones securely in place.
-
Meenakari (Enamel Work): The reverse side of many Kundan pieces is adorned with colourful enamel work, a process known as Meenakari. This ensures that the jewellery is as beautiful on the back as it is on the front.
-
Polishing and Finishing: The completed piece is cleaned, polished, and inspected for quality before being deemed ready.
Kundan vs. Polki vs. Meenakari: Understanding the Differences
These three terms are often used interchangeably, but they refer to distinct aspects of Indian jewellery making:
-
Kundan refers specifically to the gold-setting technique where refined gold foil is used to embed stones.
-
Polki refers to uncut, raw diamonds that are commonly used as the gemstones within Kundan settings. Polki stones are flat and natural, with an earthy, organic brilliance quite different from cut diamonds.
-
Meenakari is an enamel art form applied to the reverse side of Kundan jewellery, adding layers of vibrant colour and decoration.
A single piece of jewellery can incorporate all three elements — and when it does, it is considered to represent the highest form of traditional Indian jewellery craftsmanship.
Types of Kundan Jewellery Pieces You Should Know
Kundan jewellery encompasses a wide range of ornaments, each with its own heritage and significance. Some of the most celebrated types include:
• Kundan Necklace Sets: The showstopper of bridal jewellery, Kundan necklaces are layered, dramatic, and unmistakably royal. They are crafted in everything from delicate single-strand designs to heavy multi-layered statement pieces.
• Choker Necklaces: Kundan chokers sit high on the neck and are among the most popular choices for festive and wedding wear. Their compact design makes them versatile and easy to pair with both traditional and contemporary outfits.
• Earrings (Jhumkas and Danglers): Kundan earrings range from small and understated studs to elaborate jhumkas (bell-shaped drops) and long dangler designs featuring cascading gemstones.
• Maang Tikka: A traditional head ornament worn at the hairline parting, the Kundan maang tikka is an essential bridal accessory across many Indian communities.
• Bangles and Bracelets: Kundan bangles, often paired with enamel work, are heirloom-quality pieces that are gifted across generations.
• Haath Phool (Hand Harness): An elaborate ornament connecting rings to a bracelet across the back of the hand, frequently seen in bridal trousseau collections.
Why Kundan Jewellery Remains Timeless in the Modern Era
In an age where trendy clothing and machine-made accessories are easily accessible to almost everyone, opting for Kundan jewellery will always be a statement about yourself. There are many reasons why Kundan jewellery continues to stay relevant even today.
The first reason is that Kundan jewellery is endlessly adaptable. Although people most commonly associate Kundan work with heavy jewellery meant for weddings and other celebrations, modern Kundan jewellery designers have started using the traditional craft for lighter, more delicate pieces that you can wear to the office, for a cocktail party, or with your everyday ethnic wear.
Another huge advantage of Kundan jewellery is that it’s one-of-a-kind. Since Kundan jewellery is made entirely by hand, depending on the skill and creativity of the artisan making it, there will never be two identical pieces of Kundan jewellery. Machine made jewellery will never be able to offer you this kind of exclusivity.
Finally, Kundan jewellery means something to you on a personal level. In every Indian household, there are Kundan earrings or necklaces that grandma passed down to her daughter, pieces that are being saved for your dowry, or something that your husband gifted you for your engagement or wedding. Kundan jewellery has stories.
Where to Find Authentic Kundan Jewellery: A Note on Tantaaz
These days, there are a lot of jewellery brands that sell Kundan or Kundan-inspired jewellery. With so many options available, it can be difficult to shop for pieces that truly pay homage to Kundan craftsmanship, instead of just looking like it. That’s why knowing your artisan- forward brands is key.
Enter Tantaaz. This luxe jewellery brand prides itself on its adherence to traditional values and classic elegance. Their collection of Kundan and Polki jewellery, necklace sets, chokers, earrings, and more are curated and created by artisans to celebrate the history of royal Indian jewellery.
But Tantaaz doesn’t just offer traditional styles. The brand is also great for Kundan jewellery beginners looking to start their collection. Need a showstopper necklace for your big day? Want a comfortable Kundan choker for daily wear? Looking for jhumka earrings to complete your outfit? Tantaaz has you covered for every occasion and style always with a focus on craftsmanship. Check out Tantaaz.com for traditional and modern Kundan jewellery pieces that won’t break the bank.
How to Style Kundan Jewellery: Pairing and Occasion Tips
Kundan jewellery rewards intentional styling. Here are a few guiding principles to help you wear it well:
Contrast with your outfit:
Kundan pieces look most striking against solid-coloured fabrics — deep reds, forest greens, navy blues, and ivory whites. Busy prints can compete visually with the jewellery’s intricacy.
Let one piece lead:
If you are wearing a heavy Kundan necklace set, keep earrings relatively minimal, and vice versa. This prevents visual overload and lets your signature piece speak for itself.
Contemporary pairings:
A lightweight Kundan choker or stud earrings pair beautifully with western formal wear — think silk blouses, tailored blazers, or deep-V evening gowns. This east-meets-west approach has become increasingly popular at Indian weddings and global cultural events alike.
Caring for Your Kundan Jewellery
Because Kundan pieces involve lac, gold foil, and occasionally delicate enamel work, they require a gentle approach to storage and maintenance:
• Always store Kundan jewellery in a separate, soft-lined box to avoid scratching.
• Avoid contact with water, perfume, and chemical-based cosmetics, which can erode the lac base and dull the stones.
• Clean with a soft, dry cloth rather than jewellery cleaning solutions.
• Take the piece to a trusted jeweller every few years for re-lacquering or re-polishing, especially for heirloom quality items.
Final Thoughts: Kundan Jewellery as a Cultural Legacy
Kundan jewellery isn’t just jewellery; it is the culmination of centuries of knowledge, royal influence and artisan mastery. Every stone tells the story of skilled craftsmen and rich cultural heritage.
When you choose Kundan you do more than buy into exquisite jewellery, you become part of preserving a history that has withstood dynasties, trends and is as glamorous today as it was in Rajasthan 500 years ago.
If you’re buying Kundan jewellery for your wedding suite, an upcoming celebration or even to start a jewellery collection infused with culture and exquisite style, now is the best time to discover Kundan.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is Kundan jewellery made of real gold?
Traditional Kundan jewellery uses highly refined 24-karat gold foil as the setting material. However, many contemporary Kundan pieces use gold-plated bases to keep them accessible. Always check with the seller for specifics on the gold content used.
2. What is the difference between Kundan and Polki jewellery?
Kundan refers to the gold-setting technique, while Polki refers to the type of stone (uncut, natural diamond) used within that setting. Kundan Polki jewellery combines both — uncut diamonds embedded using the traditional Kundan gold-foil method.
3. Can Kundan jewellery be worn daily?
Heavier Kundan sets are best reserved for special occasions due to their delicate construction. However, lighter Kundan studs, minimal chokers, and small dangler earrings can be comfortably worn on a daily basis, provided they are kept away from moisture and chemicals.
4. How do I identify authentic Kundan jewellery?
Authentic Kundan jewellery will feature a handcrafted quality that is immediately visible in slight variations and intricate detailing. The reverse side often carries Meenakari enamel work, which is a hallmark of genuine Kundan craftsmanship. Machine-made replicas tend to have a uniform, flat appearance without this artisanal depth.
5. Where is the best place to buy Kundan jewellery online?
Look for brands that are transparent about their craftsmanship and sourcing. Tantaaz is a reputable luxury jewellery destination that offers an extensive range of Kundan necklaces, chokers, and earrings, combining traditional artistry with reliable quality. Browsing platforms that provide detailed product descriptions, clear stone specifications, and artisan provenance information will always serve you better than generic marketplace listings.
